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Daved (or anyone else): Any experience with Monster Cables
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jconstant
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Joined: 16 Jul 2003
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Location: Southern California

PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aeolian wrote:
I'd avoided tracking down a Planet Wave cable cause of the Robben connection. When folks accuse you of being really into someone else's style, I don't want to add to that by using the same gear. Especially something as obscure as a cable that isn't easy to find around here. But when I picked up my Fuchs from the local dealer, he pulled one out to test the amp. I found it to be very balanced sounding so I bought one. The next gig I found out that unlike the Monster, it makes no noise when slapped on the stage. So I bought more. If folks think I'm copying Robben, so what. In my opinion, they are the best guitar cables around. Not that I've done a lot of trying really obscure brands. But compared to Monster, George L, various ProCo, Belden and Carol cable cords I've tried, I'm sticking with the Planet Waves for now.


Aeolian,

You've touched on an interesting subject that I have struggled with many times. I have a Fender RF Signature guitar and sometimes I feel conspicuous because with it and other times I feel like showing it off. Is there really something wrong with buying equipment, in part, because of a professional endorsement? After all, that's what endorsements are all about.

So I'm a huge RF fan and yeah, I bought a guitar with his name on it, but its a damn nice guitar too. If it wasn't, I wouldn't play it.

I think the best solution is to use the equipment you like the most and if it just so happens that a big name plays with the same thing then so be it. If people want to give me a hard time about then they can go pound sand.
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JohnnyZ
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Joined: 29 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heck, until I got into Johnny A.'s music, my wife thought I was obsessed with Robben Ford. But, I didn't care! Laughing Cool

~JZ~
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jconstant
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know how you feel. My girlfriend calls me a stalker! Now that's love, isn't it?
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Aeolian
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jconstant wrote:
I know how you feel. My girlfriend calls me a stalker! Now that's love, isn't it?

And here Anne was just worried about Elizabeth Laughing Maybe there'll be a support group for RF fan widdows, folks left behind due to RF worship Very Happy
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Aeolian
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

edpesco wrote:
>> soldering spots break <<


This is because of the gold on the contacts.

Little rocket science here folks:
Gold is a great metalic barrier as it doesn't oxidize. There are more conductive metals around but the lack of oxidization makes it a decent contact material. It likes to alloy with many things and will continue to do so without any extra help from soldering irons or plating machines. This is called solid state difussion. Usually gold is plated over Nickel as a barrier from whatever metal is underneath. Now if you make the gold too thin, it is porous enough that oxygen can get though and attack the nicklel underneath. Eventually this oxidized nickel migrates to the surface and you don't have such a great contact any more. Nickle oxides are really poor conductors. There's also the issue of wear. Even gold alloys are not the hardest metals around and will eventually wear off.
Now to the solder joint. The connector contact is made of brass or copper with nickel plated over it and then gold plated over the nickel. Solder is made of tin and lead. Tin really likes to alloy or mix with other metals. The lead is there to lower the melting point. Tin melts at 232 degrees Centigrade while most common tin/lead solders melt at 183C. Gold and tin really go for each other and when you melt the solder onto the connector contact, the gold diffuses into the tin and then some of the nickel diffuses into the tin. So you have a layer of nickel, and layer of tin/nickel alloy, some tin/gold alloy and then the tin/lead alloy of the solder (followed by some solder where the lead proportion is higher as a lot of the tin joined with other things (fickle stuff). The very thin layers of alloys are called intermetalics. The tin/nickel intermetalic is what holds the thing together. It is the bond between the metals. Gold/tin alloy is very brittle. If there isn't too much gold, it diffuses into the tin without creating a discrete intermetalic layer. But if there is the amount of gold that usually get plated on the wear surface of a contact, then enough gold/tin intermetalic forms to create an easily fractured boundary layer.
There are two ways to deal with this. Put less gold (or something else) in the soldering area than goes on the plug part. This is an expensive two step process. Or, put some solder on the contact to absorb the gold and then take it off with solder wick before actually soldering the wire. This is also time consuming and expensive. For any of the amature electronic wizzards out there, I highly recommend you do this to any gold contacts you are soldering to as you have no way of knowing how much gold plating is on there. The US millitary put a limit of 100 microinches of gold on a solderable surface. The telecommunications industry reduced this to 50. You aren't going to measure these thicknesses on your kitchen table. So do the two step.
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JohnnyZ
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aeolian wrote:
And here Anne was just worried about Elizabeth Laughing Maybe there'll be a support group for RF fan widdows, folks left behind due to RF worship Very Happy


Way too funny! Laughing
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edpesco
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aeolian wrote:
edpesco wrote:
>> soldering spots break <<


This is because of the gold on the contacts.



Thanks Aeolian for the lesson, interesting but you should tell this the Monster company, still they give a lifetime warranty and I got two new cables but still it's a bug and I just don't want to solder cables (as I also would lose warranty then). Now I've come to cheap ones that sound good and if there is anything wrong I just throw them away Very Happy .

Ed
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marinblues
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2004 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting thread....are we talking about the cables which connect the guitar to the amp? Very Happy
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edpesco
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 12:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

marinblues wrote:
Interesting thread....are we talking about the cables which connect the guitar to the amp? Very Happy


nono signore, about cables for SM purposes Laughing
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marinblues
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 12:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

edpesco wrote:
marinblues wrote:
Interesting thread....are we talking about the cables which connect the guitar to the amp? Very Happy


nono signore, about cables for SM purposes Laughing


OoooooooooooK Shocked


Now I understand the hype!


Marin
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AndyR
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Joined: 09 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 4:24 am    Post subject: Re: cables Reply with quote

For those who are interested, Bill Lawrence sells a solderless connectors/cable set from his website:

http://www.billlawrence.com/Pages/Connector_Cable.htm


50 feet cable and 10 connectors @ $48.00 plus shipping seems like a pretty good deal...MusiciansFriend is selling similar George-L sets at the same price, but with only 10-15 feet of cable.

I'll eventually get around to ordering the Bill Lawrence set and let you all know how it works out.

Smile

Andy
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Daved
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have never had overly favorable results with Monster Cable. Among it's drawbacks, from a production standpoint, is that it is too fragile and stiff for rigirous road use.

Several models of MC also have "too many moving parts".
Examples:
1) One of MC's "special features" is that some model cables have screw in/replaceable quarter inch plug tips which can easily loosen and start conductive problems if you are unaware and/or less than diligent about checking for this regularly.
2) You must watch to be sure that the black insultion surrounding the individual wires stays sufficiently peeled back so as not to short out the wire at it's connection point.

(IMPORTANT: OK everyone, I will now reveal here to you all one of my personal 'professional/quality secrets'.
What I have just told you about cable insulation applies to MANY brands, makes, and models of audio cable... and I am always AMAZED at how few techs know this.
When I temp with a group who has cable problems, this is always one of the first things I check for, and it almost always proves to be their primary trouble spot and then, when I point this out to the groups resident tech and/or the musician himself, their eyes buldge, their jaws drop and they exclaim that they never knew this about cable construction!

If you want to check your own cables... let me clarify:
Look at the insulation between your signal conductor and it's braided shielding. It is usually made of either a clear or white material. Although it actually may be, ocassionally, made of a black material... the fact that this insulation appears to be black is most definitely a 'flag' to more closely examine your cable. The reason why is that many, if not most, quality cables are, these days, constructed with a thin, black layer of CONDUCTIVE, I repeat... CONDUCTIVE, rubbery material between the actual insulation and the grounded braid to insure a more uniform and complete sheild. When the cable is prepped for use and the eighth to quarter inch seperation of insulation between the conductor and the braid is cut, the black conductive coating, if it is there, must also be removed. Check very closely! This coating is often not readily visible as seperate from the actual insulation underneath. You may want to carefully scrape the surface of the "black" insulation to insure that it truely is insulation all the way thru], or it will, over time, with use, move close enough to the conductor to start creating intermitant and permanent shorts.)
Providence (see last paragraph below) is a company which DOES remove this layer while meticulously & precisely constructing it's ends.

The only musician I've ever worked with who heavily endorses and uses Monster cable is bassist Myron Dove (from my days with Santana and then later with Robben). However, Myron uses a rack filled with amps & FX which is stuffed with Monster cable so, as long as you don't have to burrow into the back of the rack, the cable sees minimal disturbance/wear-and-tear.

The first time I worked with Little Feat for a substantial length of time, about 3 years ago, I found they had alot of cable problems, which I quickly reduced to being Monster cable problems, of which they used quite a bit. I cleared out all of their MC supplies and they have been much happier ever since.

Robben & I have tested Monstercable heavily in my early days with him and he consistently dislikes them sonically. I found I could secretly switch any length of MC with any of Robben's cables and Robben always and immediately recognizes that there is "something annoyingly wrong" with his sound. I cleared out all of his MC cable supply and we have avoided MC ever since.

After much extensive testing and trial during my first couple of years on board, we have settled with a combination of Dumble custombuilt Siver wire, Planetwave, and Providence cabling that Robben is very pleased with. I use a Planetwave from guitar to pedal board and then I use Providence "Patch Series" for jumpers between the pedals and for the audio line back to the amp input. We use the Silver wire in the FX loop between the Dumble Overdrive amp and the Dumbleator.

Providence makes several different models of cable, all of which we have tested. Robben was favorably impressed with the sound of each, particularly within the context of their usage design. For Robben, we have found that he leans towards the "Patch Series" and the "Shark Series" for his needs.
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JackD
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And there you have it! Daved has the final word. Thanks very much to Daved and everyone else who contributed commentary to this topic. I now know a lot more about cables than I ever did before. That's what I love about this message board--ask a question . . . get a lot of great information!
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Aeolian
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 09, 2004 12:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Daved, I saw Myron tonight and guess what he is using? Planet Waves Smile Local gig, he was playing a Warwick into a small rack and single ElWhappo cab.
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